It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. My experience not so good. The company has remained a family-run business since their establishment in 1806. Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. From what Ive read on your blog and others, I think W&S are the superior tailor and Id rather compromise my style and get a better quality suit. Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. And looking at her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than a cutter. The prices are comparable. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. Ready-to-wear garments, no matter how well altered, can never be as accurately fitted as one made by a skilled craftsman who constructs it especially for your body. I wouldnt prioritise that over a colour of cloth I preferred, for example. ), That means 3-4 visits for the first suit. You could also look at Kent Haste & Lachter, who would be more similar to that style. I really like how the waist is just a pitch slimming/tapered but not too slim like most fashionable suits out there now, almost uncomfortable to see let alone to wear. If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. The workshop is a cooperative, so all the tailors own part of the company, and we guarantee full salaries for all our staff, rather than paying piece work. Whitcomb also pays for the education of all its employees children and the brothers have established an additional scheme that rehabilitates women who are either victims of trafficking or at high risk. Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. Therefore, I will not be going back as I see it as a bit of a risk. Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! With over 400 years of accumulated experience on Savile Row, our master cutters and tailors take care of ensuring a perfect fit, creating the ultimate collaboration of design and craftsmanship. Bravo! I hope you do not mind me mentioning, but I noticed that you also have a new piece in work with them and that it has been made in a toile initially. Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! P.S. Hi Simon. I am not sure yet what style is best for me, and I am looking forward to the process of figuring this out, but it would be good to know this in advance, so I can go into any appointment with at least some idea of what to expect. I wear my suit 12 hours a day but tend to have the jacket hung up most of the time, so really its trousers that are as important to me. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). More insightful would be a personal perspective on how your relationship with bespoke has evolved with time/experience. Hi, Like the lap seam down the back of the jacket (an idea I shamelessly copied across from my Chittleborough & Morgan suit). Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. By subscribing, I agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. How about the Huntsman 100 product? top of page. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Whitcomb + Shaftesbury UK Bespoke One Button Gray Blazer-No Pants-Fit 43 Short at the best online prices at eBay! Thanks for your time, JK. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? how many weeks from measuring to first fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, etc. What am I missing? Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. As this can take a year or so? Thanks, and great suggestions. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? More on Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, such as John's background at Kilgour, in the first post here It seems to have a bit of drape, and the shoulders arent too military? You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. No it would look good without a tie. I also appreciate your point about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow, which is not something i had considered, but fully makes sense. Im looking at getting a first sportsjacket for casual wear made but the justification of 1500 for one despite the longetivity is negative. Also, is their normally a third fitting?. Simon, Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. Yes, for the first-timer expectations can certainly be too high, which was the case for me. But different to an A&S drape cut, and very different to anything French or Italian. I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. Yes Stuart, Ill certainly do one. Do you know anything about her? In other words, when you order a bespoke suit, youre effectively speaking for that piece of clothing telling the tailor exactly what you want it to look like and how you want it to fit.Bespoke suits are usually made from higher-quality materials than ready-to-wear or off-the rack suits, and theyre designed to last longer. I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? The fabric will be high quality and the stitching will be precise and flawless.Secondly, a bespoke suit will always be perfectly tailored to the individual. The entire team was excellent and I await the return of their overseas visits. "For bespoke needs, Suresh and I opened Whitcomb & Shaftesbury on Savile Row. Great thank you very much! I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. Programs were set up in a number of different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery. Have you read my post on the margins of bespoke generally? Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain, my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Simonnot-Godard via Mes Chaussettes Rouges, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown, Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Edward Sexton offshore bespoke tailoring. Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. Say, could I ask the tailor whether he would be willing or able to make a Huntsman-style jacket I fear he would feel rather offended.. The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. Let me know if that doesnt answer your question Includes digital magazine access + a free gift. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. Whilst on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds? The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? Most are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. Hi Simon. No, the style is different in other ways too. I am happy to share my experience/pictures in 4-5 weeks when it is complete, if it is helpful? The fact is that I havent had the fortune to connect with any Neapolitan tailors like I have a couple in London, so I asked Suresh what they were comfortable with. Every artist has their Read More, What is yachting. They have outfitters (not tailors) who measure you, and their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong. There is Mori, which Maslow So is trying to do out of China but thats not fully launched yet. Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. To be honest I am leaning more towards WS now but cannot make up my mind! Thank you. I dont want any slim, modern stuff. Care to share your trick? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India ('Classic Bespoke') the other made in London ('Savile Row Bespoke'). Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. Very flattering! I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? I note your enthusiasm for W&S. So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? Do you still recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation? When he died, his son, also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors. Simon, By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? Here is a simple way to think about it. But yes, you can certainly request a little less. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service Youd wear any existing suits, then gradually swap in the better ones as you buy them. Thanks for advice. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. They seem stylistically similar (soft w some drape), and affordable. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). Their 'classic bespoke' service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. McCabe and Bigg are masters of old English styling, whereas Walton cuts a comfortable, contemporary jacket with drape with shape, loosely inspired by her training (under McCabe) at Kilgour. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . We specialise in handcrafted bespoke suits that are constructed from the finest natural materials and express a timeless elegance. Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? A bit more expensive but still good. Incidentally, did you get a second (or third) pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost? Looking forward to know your thoughts. I initially thought I would go for A&S as I love the style and think they would guide me through the process extremely well. If to compare, which make is most value for money? This article describes my way of creating a closet for a character. Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. Touch device users can explore by touch or with swipe gestures. I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. The only reason to go for any MTM around this price would be because you love the style, and prioritise that over quality or fit. 4,523 followers. According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. Hi Lewis, If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. Very best. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. Youre really in the market for made to measure, not bespoke. In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. This is a proper Savile Row suit. W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. Watch. Youll have to contact them. Before you raise an . This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. Its old Kilgour, closest to A&S probably. I have checked them out however note that: This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. One thing I worry about is whether their business model and pricing is viable in the long term. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit ? However even though we probably buy the same brands (and silks) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted. Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. Thanks as always, In London, just them and city tailors like Graham Browne. As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. So the variation in style is house to house, rather than cutter to cutter. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? Thanks Henry Poole etc.) The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. I had a second basted fitting, in which some of the issues were accounted for. At the same time, I wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brands workshop in Chennai, India. Is that a consequence of your intentions or is it more John McCabes style of cutting? I really like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots. I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). The only thing youd be looking for is a difference in execution and there are some tiny points there. Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? I have however been following this W&S post with interest as I use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? Following your review of W&S I have scheduled an appointment for their upcoming visit to NY. I have large shoulders, am tall and have a relatively slim waist, but dont feel comfortable looking bigger. I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). From what Ive seen of the Huntsman service its good, but it is expensive for what it is. What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. Interesting article. Accepting your assurances that it is navy, I think it looks great and would do well in my eyes for my perception of business which may differ from those in the financial sector, I didnt Im afraid no, so I dont have the cost. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Hi Richard An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The blue suitseems to be a popular choice for people in sales professions at the moment. Thanks for your reply Simon. It almost feels like cheating. Thanks Simon for this wonderful blog, Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Bespoke three peice suit in navy 13oz wool #bespoke # savilerow #handmade #suit #style #elegance #hollandandsherry #whitcombshaftesbury #mensstyle #menswear #rakish #elegance However, how far does that extend to? ), Simon if you have any influence on this company (and I suppose you do in a way because clearly they wanted you see their quality and write something about it) for the love of God make them hire somebody who redoes their website. i.e. Eventually, in a visit to London last summer, I had W & S make me a versatile grey flannel three-piece and I was extremely pleased: absolutely wonderful cut and fit, and exquisite hand finishing. I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. The chest, lapel and collar are still hand-padded; the buttonholes are finely hand-stitched; every other area of finishing youd expect from Savile Row bespoke (eg hand-stitching the lining of the waistband) is there.
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